Fly fishing is very different than fishing with a lure or worm type baits. The fly fisherman uses a artificial fly consisting of bites of feathers, foam, hide, fur, yarn, and other materials to be tried on to a hook that make it appealing to the type of fish you are catching. Every fly fisherman has his own type of flies he like to use some purchase them and then some of us like to tie our own. Fly tying is more of an art with basic training which most people can learn over a short period of time.
Dry fly fishing is the best classic form of fishing. The artificial fly is cast so that it floats on the surface of the water. As the fly passes over the fish it will rise to the surface and strike or take the fly.
With the fly rod you will attempt to stop the fish from spitting out the fly and get it tired enough so you can land it in your net. With fly fishing you will see all the action as you cast the fly and play the fish for a strike. The fly is very visible on the surface to the fish. You will see the fish take the fly on the surface however trout and other fish tend to feed under water so if you see the fish rising to the surface it is time to use a dry fly.
Wet flies will sink under the surface of the water an may be passed in front of the fish there bye causing the fish too strike at the fly,
Nymph fishing is very popular after the flies lay eggs on lakes or in streams and they hatch out as nymphs. As the nymphs make their way to the surface the fish will take them. When they get to the surface they will hatch into a flies.
When nymph fishing the imitation nymphs you us will be weighted to stay below the surface of the water. This will be far more of a challenge for you as the action all take place under the surface of the water and you will not be able to see if a fish is about to strike.
Most fish can be caught on a fly but the most common are trout, salmon, chars, and most game fish. In most areas the trout are the most popular and you will find them feeding mostly on small insects in shallow water. If you live on the coast you find salmon fishing with a fly rod a very rewarding challenge. Hooking a 30 or 40 pound salmon on a fly rod will give you a work out running up and down the beach trying to play the fish out to land it .
The fly fishing sport has gained ever increasing popularity over the years. Most will agree it just not about catching the fish but in the delivery of the fly and the skill and knowledge in the pursuit. http://tinyurl.com/pgqjj
Some fly fisherman regard fly fishing as the holy grail of fishing. It is more relaxing and some say a better past time than golf. The sport of fly fishing see people from all walks of life. Some say it is more environmentally friends than the other type of fishing because it does less harm to the fish then other styles of fishing.
The art of fly fishing will get in to your blood and you will peruse the quite of the streams or the solitude of the ocean beaches to capture you prey. Most anglers will catch and release if they are fly fishing.
Copied with permission from: http://plrplr.com/52036/fly-fishing-for-fun/
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Fresh Water Fishing The Basics You Need To Know
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Have you had the opportunity to fish in freshwater? While some find it to be a distant relation to other types of fishing, it is still one of the best ways to spend your time. There are hundreds of lakes out there that you can be enjoying virtually any time that you would like to. To learn more about it, take a look at your options here.
Fresh water fishing is done in lakes, rivers and streams that have minute quantities of dissolved salts. Freshwater sources are precipitation or melting ice and snow. There are many fresh water fish species, but some of the most important ones are bass, catfish, pickerel, pike sunfish, trout, salmon, muskellunge, sturgeon and walleye.
Equipment for Freshwater Fishing
What you’ll need for basic freshwater fishing equipment includes a fishing rod and reel, fishing line between 4 and 10 pound-test, a variety of sinkers, a variety of hooks (sizes 6 to 10), floats, bait and in most locations, a fishing permit or license. There are a variety of both live and artificial baits that work well for fresh water fishing.
Bait You’ll Need
Live bait works well for fresh water fishing. Freshwater fish feed on a variety of prey, including earthworms, insects, insect larvae, frogs, minnows, chub, shad, crayfish and small fish species such as smelt. Freshwater fishing bait such as earthworms, crayfish, frogs, minnows, chubs and shads can be caught in its natural habitat. Look around piers and in shallow water. Freshwater bait can also be purchased from your local bait and tackle shop.
Artificial bait is manmade bait that attracts fish to bite or strike. It includes plastic worms, insects, flies, small jigs, lures, spoons, streamers, flies, spinners and more. Artificial bait can be purchased at fishing tackle and bait shops or online. Some anglers prefer to buy the supplies for these types of baits and make their own.
There are a wide variety of prepared baits that you can use for freshwater fishing. These include kernel corn, bread balls, cheese balls, egg bags, liver, cereal balls, chicken entrails. Here is just a short list of some freshwater fish and the bait that attracts them.
earthworms, liver, chicken entrails, hotdogs, frogs, tadpoles, crayfish and most lures. At times you can even catch them on shiny hooks that have no bait.
earthworms, frogs, minnows, shad, all types of small fish species, crayfish, chub, spinners, spoons and egg sacs.
earthworms, insects, insect larvae, frogs, minnows, crayfish, spoons, Mepps, spinners, artificial worms, jigs, streamers and spinners.
flies, spinners, spoons, egg sacs, shrimp and large plugs.
earthworms, bread balls, kernel corn, insects and insect larvae, as well as small, shiny lures.
earthworms, insects, insect larvae, frogs, minnows, crayfish, spoons and Mepps, spinners, artificial worms, jigs, spinners and streamers.
shad, frogs, real or artificial minnows, worms, maggots, spinners, spoons, jigs, plugs and small fish species.
earthworms, flies, insects, insect larvae, kernel corn, egg sacs, crayfish and minnows.
small fish species, frogs, Mepps, spinners, jigs, minnows, plastic trailers and rapalas.
frogs, freshwater clams, lamprey, eels, smelt, salmon eggs, shad, shrimp, egg sacs, yarn flies, brilliantly colored and silver lures.
Go ahead and give it a try. If you would like to learn more about this type of fishing, you need to talk to someone that is a professional that can show you just what you need to do, where to go and what to use to be successful at freshwater fishing.
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Get Out Onto The Lake And Catch Big Fish
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If your goal is to get out onto the lake and catch a few big fish, then you’ll want to use the Humminbird 97 fishfinder to help you. It will guide you to the perfect location. It will give you great images of the lake bottom (not to mention the fish in the area). It will then help you to lure in your fish by allowing you to see its movements. Easy to use and water resistant, this is the perfect way to get your fish every time. Consider the Humminbird 97 as your choice!
The Humminbird 97 line offers you an outstanding professional level fishfinder. With a full GPS navigation, Chartplotting and Sonar Out of the Box, you have every aspect that you need to locate your fish and lure him in. This technology can allow you the best advantage when it comes to finding your fish. GPS keeps you on the right location while sonar gives you an outstanding view of the waves below. Looking for a school of fish without the Humminbird Matrix 97 is impossible. But, with this technology you’ll have no problem finding out what’s below the surface every time.
In fact, this model has professional grade sonar that is Dual Beam PLUS which means that it is a much higher powered sonar that will deliver for you an outstanding detailed image of the fish below, the lake bottom, as well as anything else that may be lurking below.
Even more so, it also features a 5.6 inch viewable screen that is easy to use even in the brightest of sun light. How often have you been blinded out of using your equipment because the sun is simply too bright? Not on these screens! You’ll know what’s going on every step of the way with detailed images no matter what the sun is doing.
The Humminbird 97 features programmable viewer presets. You program it to get to the screens you want it to show. You don’t have to try to figure it out on the lake. You can do this ahead of time and save yourself the time and aggravation of trying to get the best screen to show up. In fact, you can even keep your hands free to do what you need to be doing with your fishing rod because this model is also in dash or mountable.
Consider the Humminbird 97 as your choice and you will be the envy of your fishing mates.
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When browsing through a fishing tackle website or catalog you may well have come across ‘Mill End’ fly lines being sold at very low prices. Originally, these would have been short bits of fly lines left over at the end of a manufacturing run and sold off cheap as they would not be the normal 30 yards in length and might have minor defects. These mill end fly lines were often a great bargain as you could get a slightly shorter version of an expensive fly line at a fraction of the full lines cost.
Nowadays, the term ‘mill end’ is often used as a generic name for very low cost, unbranded fly lines that are only tested to a fairly basic quality level. There is usually no manufacturers name given and they’re normally supplied loose in tied coils with no boxes or packaging.
The good thing about these mill end fly lines is that they turn out to be exactly what many people who are new to fly fishing or have a tight budget are looking for. Low cost fly lines that have been made under tight cost control with no money spent on expensive branding and packaging. Modern manufacturing means they’re usually well made with few, if any, defects and they can be surprisingly good to use and cast.
Mill end fly lines do tend to be slightly shorter than full length fly lines, typically only 27 yards instead of the usual 30 yards and won’t be made from the latest durable and slick materials that are used on the best fly lines. They also tend to come in a variety of colours so won’t be a good choice if you’re after a certain colour of high visibility fly line for example.
Mill end fly lines are an excellent choice though if you fit any of the following descriptions:
– An angler wanting a low cost fly line for casting practice in a field or park.
– A newcomer to fly fishing who just starting out.
– An angler on a budget who would like to add a low cost intermediate or sinking fly line to their tackle bag.
I’ve been fly fishing for over 30 years and much of the advice I’ve seen on mill end fly lines is along the lines of ‘they’re cheap, not much good and won’t last long’. Well I have to say I disagree with this. I still use a sinking mill end fly line that I bought over 20 years ago. It casts well and I’ve caught many of my best fish on it. My son has recently started fly fishing too and his setup includes a floating mill end fly line that has surprised me at how good it is. I have to say that in my experience, as long as your expectations are not too high, then mill end fly lines are truly the bargain of the fly fishing world.
Source by Michael Robert Hughes
Robin Red is one of the most successful carp bait additives in the history of carp fishing! It is a true winter winner though and used now in readymade and homemade baits all year round too! How can you exploit this amazing carp catcher best to get better and better big carp catches in winter and all year round? More is revealed here to stimulate those carp senses so read on now!
Robin Red is a dark red powder originally formulated to improve health and plumage colouration of birds. But it has loads of controversy, myth and legend attached to it due to its exceptional carp catching powers! Within this mysterious mixture of sweet, spicy seedy, sugar sweet and red oily factors and elements are the secrets to an astonishing history of carp catches going right back as far as the mid-sixties. Among carp fishing bait ingredients or additives, Robin Red ranks in many anglers top ten, yet there are many anglers that have never ever used it who do not realise what they can do with it to improve their catches!
Two of the first anglers known to have been developing the use of Robin Red in the context of carp fishing baits and extraordinary catches were Ian Booker and John Holt. Many other anglers including Rod Hutchinson were to spread the advantages of using Robin Red as part of their baits, especially in the making of boilies. The distinctive rod colouration of the hands when fishing with Robin Red boilies was a signal to fellow anglers of what you were using, even though in the early days of carp fishing pioneering robin red was part of the cult of carp bait secrecy!
Robin red has been discussed, argued about, and generally thrown about as a subject for debate ever since it became more widely known because anglers really wanted to know what its secrets of success were. It seems that possibly the recipe might have changed, perhaps due to EU legislation perhaps but some think the recipe is not exactly as it was. But even so, the recipe is similar enough today for me to think it very much the same product that I first used at the start of the eighties.
Getting hold of Robin Red is easy enough and one of the most economical licensed suppliers is CC Moore. Many bait companies use this outstanding ingredient in at least one of the baits in their readymade bait range and certainly the CC Moore Meteor readymade bait is a mix that has caught endless big carp over the years including an old Rainbow Lake record, and I for one have been making versions of homemade baits for many decades using Robin red and more recently adapting and altering CC Moore Meteor to tailor it towards my own lines of bait design principles and internal and external functions and optimizations.
One of the things you first notice about Robin Red is how similar it smells to paprika, and the molasses content is very noticeable too. Both I have used to great effect especially in low water temperatures, and indeed Robin red is a legendary winter bait additive. Robin red was originally so associated with winter and cold temperatures that most anglers I knew in the early eighties in the north Kent and south Essex only changed over to exploiting Robin Red around the middle of October dependent upon how fast temperatures dropped off and frosts approached!
The two factors of cold weather and Robin Red were intertwined and in time with experimentation we homemade bait makers realised that this spicy sweet additive was actually very good at any time of year! This was a time before readymade boilies became available in fishing shops and personal experimentation was a key part of personal fishing success.
In fact for me this journey never stopped right up to this day, as the advantages of actually knowing for certain what a bait is composed of and knowing why and how to truly optimise and maximise a bait for particular conditions and seasons of the year is just so incredibly important to maximizing your success!
Anglers using readymade baits without developing this first hand knowledge are simply blind regarding bait and are fishing on faith without knowing how to better the bait they have bought!
Being a homemade bait maker is not for me about choosing a mixture and how many eggs go into a mix. What matters to me are factors that the fish all tell me, in relation to their internal and external processes and much more, and how to induce feeding even when conditions and fish metabolism seem at odds with feeding. This is where the notable aspects of Robin Red are significant to me and I have often used this additive as a starting point for developing bait additives and baits of my own design, to get unique edges over well known and established commercial food baits.
This additive is often used in readymade baits at low inclusion rates, because that way a company can call their bait Red this or that and state it includes this renowned additive, without necessarily putting much in at all! To me this is not a beneficial situation for those that for whatever reasons do not make their own baits!
The fact is that there is a world of difference in catch results between making a winter homemade bait using as little as 25 grams of Robin Red, compared to using 100 or 200 grams in a kilogram of base mix! Pepper and chilli can be over powering due to the ever so potent micro-elements they contain so the balance is critical.
I have made baits with too many spices which have made bait repellant, and only testing will identify maximum levels if you create your own spices mixtures and I test all my baits very rigorously indeed! With Robin Red if you use 100 to 200 grams per kilogram in boilie bait recipes you can be certain you have not over powered your bait and have easily enough of this additive to make all the difference! Revealed in my unique readymade bait and homemade bait carp and catfish bait secrets ebooks is far more powerful information look up my unique website (Baitbigfish) and see my biography below for details of my ebooks deals right now!
Wiper, the hybrid striped bass/white bass, is gaining a lot of popularity in fishing circles across Colorado and surrounding areas that have wiper fisheries. The greatest excitement is probably found among the relatively small circle of fly fishers who pursue them. Once you find these fish, fooling them with a fly is not difficult. The powerful fight that entails is something that will almost make you wonder why you’d fish for anything else.
Now, wiper are fairly mysterious fish and volumes have not been written on the subject of fishing for them. As with any type of fishing article, authors offer information based on their experiences, leaving the door wide open for an array of other tactics, insights, and opinions. It seems everyone I talk to about wiper have their own thoughts that have been formulated not by magazine articles and fishing shows, but from their own personal quests. This article is nothing different. I have put in many hours behind the reel searching for these steamrollers, and the following is a compilation of my experiences.
Fly fishing for wiper can be humbling, but if you get that one trip under your belt where you really get into them and figure them out, you will be hooked for life. Having these hybrid-vigor fueled fish tear line out of your hands is an amazing feeling, and we should consider ourselves lucky to have this fish available to us. It’s like saltwater fishing in the Rockies.
Wiper will eat forage fish about the width of the gape of their mouth, entitling this 6-inch shad to be dinner for the big boys.
Finding the fish:
The most important thing in any type of fishing is locating the fish. If you’re fishing trout in a river you look for pockets and runs of the right depth, size, and water speed. When smallmouth fishing in a lake, you look for certain structure and depth depending on the time of year, or you survey with your electronics. Whatever the scenario, if you find the spots where the living is easy and the food aplenty, you will find big fish.
It is often assumed wiper travel constantly and randomly around the lake in schools at generally high speeds picking off whatever food they come across. My thoughts are that this is partially correct. I have witnessed their schooling mentality and their speed of travel. One moment they will bust near the surface 50 yards to the east, and the next you will see them flashing underneath your boat and onto the west. But I don’t think it is completely random. Those frustrated by this thought, hang in there. This may not be an easy fish to locate, but I don’t think it’s a crap shot.
Every fish has some level of energy conservation written into their DNA. If they did not, they would exhaust themselves swimming about freely all day long. Think about trout in a river – the biggest fish will take the best spots where current is slight but carries plenty of oxygen and food so they can keep growing big and fat.
Wiper are no different. They have spots and patterns on each body of water that provide what they need – food. With little current to speak of in general, forage is the key. They are not so much like bass that they need cover and structure to ambush fish. They are more effective schooling and taking a team-based approach to feeding. The best example of this is when they corral baitfish to the surface, bay, or other type of trap so they can perform their signature “busting” feast.
Wind blowing into any structure makes that structure better. This complex has plenty to offer wiper, especially traps for schooling baitfish.
But what about when they are not busting baitfish near the surface? I believe they are doing similar things subsurface. Here’s where experience with a lake, knowing structure and water temperatures on the lake, and understanding wiper movement comes into play the most. Wiper like other fish will use underwater structure, edges if you will, as their highways. Perhaps it is a depth breakline, submerged road beds, rocks, sunken trees, or humps. Perhaps it’s a weed line, mud line, or inlet/outlet channel. Whatever it is, these edges define a path for them. These fish travel in a route consistent with edges and the availability of food.
The “available and abundant” theory expressed by a variety of authors is alive and well. Wherever there is an abundance of food that is highly available to predators, you will find fish. So is the case with wiper. However, don’t expect the schools to sit still in one area for long. Instead expect the schools to travel paths between or with abundant food sources. That’s right, I said “with.” Wiper are ravenous beasts. They have been known to decimate forage populations. They are living vacuums. In understanding this, definitely consider baitfish schools structure. Wiper almost certainly corral and follow schools of shad and other forage fish when abundantly present. One of the best indicators in finding wiper is prevailing wind. Always check the leeward side of a lake which may harbor schools of baitfish.
Chasing wiper around a lake is not often considered a smart thing to do. It wears out trolling motor batteries and may tear your heart out. Don’t get me wrong, I do it myself all the time – especially when the busting activity is moving slowly in semi-predictable fashion. I am not the type to sit in one spot and fish for hours even if it is the best choice. My only recommendation is to find a happy medium.
Surface water temperatures are one important piece of the puzzle that will help you find wipers. These temps combined with knowledge of the fish’s movement and preferred forage will provide a good starting point to finding wipers on any given day. In the spring as surface water temps approach the 50’s, wiper will become more and more active. Optimal temps are relative to a body of water and strain of fish, but in general the farther away you get from the optimal range for any fish, the lower their metabolism and thus the less they are compelled to eat and the slower their actions will be.
One of the reasons we put the Fish Explorer website together is to provide information that will help you find fish in individual water bodies. Our focus on water temperatures is not simply a novelty. If you understand how water temperatures affect fish on a particular lake, you are one step ahead of the game.
As wiper become more active in the early season, they reportedly go into a false-spawn. At lakes with active, accessible inlet streams at the right time of year, as Jackson Lake in northeast Colorado often experiences, wiper will actually run up the inlets as if spawning. In other places such as Union Reservoir, we have seen hordes of wiper stacked outside the inlet in a typical pre-spawn staging. It is also possible that these fish are relating to the shad that are in spawn mode. Whatever the reason for this activity, it would be a good place to check these inlet areas early in the season and any time of year, especially when the water is flowing.
Outlets are also a good place to scope out wipers any time of year, especially when the faucets are turned on. At Jackson Lake it was reported that several hundred wiper escaped into the outlet river, compelling officials to put in a screen downstream to capture the AWOL and return them to the reservoir.
In both of these cases, one thing is for sure – food organisms up and down the chain are drawn to these areas at any time of the year, which may prove to be enough draw to concentrate these ever-feeding fish.
When surface water temps are in the mid 50’s to mid 60’s wiper fishing seems to be the best in Colorado. They will be active in the upper column of water meaning they are more readily available and recognizable to the fly fisherman. The upper column feeding means that fish will be in the shallows, or they may be over deeper water but up high. During this period, you will also witness good wiper fishing all day, as opposed to the oft-assumed theory that wiper are only low-light feeders. I believe wiper feed all day just like trout in a river, because they inherently like to expend energy by swimming around and thus must eat accordingly.
Analyzing satellite images can help you determine lake structure. In this image of Jackson Lake you can easily see where the “flats” are versus the main basin, which may lead you to warmer water areas in the early-season.
As water temps rise, the fish will typically move deeper to more comfortable water. The temps are better, the forage thinks so too, and sunlight/UV rays will be more dispersed. This is the most difficult time to find wiper, and you really need to put your time in and get to know a lake for its structure and tendencies. Often experimentation and time on the water will be the primary key to your success. During these times you may find wiper moving back to the surface column at night, dawn, dusk, and very cloudy days. This is the typical low-light feeding scenario aforementioned. Wiper will still be feeding mid-day, just deeper. If you’re like most people and like to see fish in the upper column or in close to shorelines, fish the low-light times.
As fall approaches and water temps lower, wiper will move back into the upper column and you will again be greeted with more optimal fishing conditions. As is typical with most fish species, the pre-ice season turns wiper into ravenous beasts. They will feed heavily. Catching this period will often produce larger fish due to the fact the fish have been growing all season and are eager to eat whatever they can before they slow down for the winter.
Two thoughts come to mind at this point as I run out of ideas to express on how to find these fish: non-standard structure and rise identification. As Dick Pearson describes so well in his book “Muskies on the Shield”, structure is not necessarily always stationary and permanent like points, humps, and weeds. Often edges can be defined in less physical terms. Other edges you may consider are baitfish schools, wind current, and my favorite, carp pods.
If you see a swarm of seagulls or diving birds congregating in the middle of a lake, go over and check it out, you might find a nice school of baitfish that has drawn not only flying critters, but wiper as well. If there’s a good wind, look for current or places where the wind makes a “spot” a better “spot”. Examples are wind blown vegetation edges, a wind-blown point, or a saddle. Current will concentrate forage into certain areas and the wiper will be there.
Regarding carp pods – don’t overlook them. We have fished around carp pods and hooked really nice wiper. Stay as far away from the slow-moving mud-stirring pods as you can so not to spook them. Cast right over their edges and off further to the sides, but not right into them. Spooking them may break up the pod and in turn you may lose your structure. We will often fish bugger or crayfish patterns in this scenario, as we think the wiper are taking advantage of the plethora of food items being stirred up by the scrounging carp.
By rise identification, I mean being able to look at a fish breaking the surface and determining what kind of fish it is and what it is doing. One calm day on Union Reservoir, we were looking for wiper and having a tough go at it. There were rises all over the lake that we initially determined were trout or bass taking insects. As we studied the actions more thoroughly we began to notice a difference in rise forms. One type of rise was different than the others – it was more of a quick “pop” than a quick splash or slurp. Soon we discovered these somehow transferred into wiper – although we aren’t sure if they were wiper eating insects or small fish near the surface, or perhaps a school of shad that were semi-frequently slurping the top. We spent the rest of the trip looking for this rise form, quickly casting streamers into the vicinity, and hooking into several wiper.
Observation is key no matter what sort of fish you are going after. Continuously observe everything around you such as water temps, lake structure, bird activity, insect activity, barometric pressure, weather changes, wind direction, wind speed, your partner’s headache, and anything else that could play into the overall puzzle you are trying to solve. Even the smallest things may trigger a thought process that could lead to success.
First, bring binoculars with you. When you have a lot of water to cover, extending your eyesight could give you the edge. They are an invaluable tool on the water when trying to locate busting fish. If you see or hear some splashing on a distant shoreline, break out your binoculars and see if they’re spawning carp, shore birds, or really wiper crashing bait in shallow water. Scan over the lake to see if you can find any surface disturbance or any birds actively feeding. One day a pair of binoculars might be the difference between boom or bust.
Second, it should be mentioned that we don’t always find wiper in large, tight schools. We often see sporadic wiper spooked by the boat jetting away from the boat. I don’t think these are necessarily solo fish, but I don’t think they’re in large schools either. If you see this happen, take some time to fan-cast the area looking for more. Take note of where you saw the fish and come back later. And more importantly try to find some other spots that fit the same makeup where you saw the fish, paying attention to wind direction, structure, depth, etc.
Now on to actually fly fishing for wiper…
Presenting Flies to Wiper:
Presenting to wipers with a fly is not rocket science. Consider the fly and setup you use to be a tool. When you are fishing to wiper in the upper water column, present your fly there. When fishing to wiper down deep, present there.
The type of fly rod you use is determined by what you’re throwing. You will often want to cast far, so I’d recommend not going lighter than a 6wt rod. If you’re finding wiper relating to the surface you will want to throw poppers or high-riding streamers, therefore a 6wt is adequate with floating or short sink-tip lines. If you want to fish a few feet down, throwing a 150-grain RIO 24-foot sink tip is the ticket, and again a fast 6wt rod should do the trick. When you need to get deeper, say 5-10 feet deep, throwing a 200 or 250-grain RIO sink tip would do the trick and you will want to be using a 7wt or 8wt rod simply to be able to handle the heft of these lines. Go to a 300-500 grain line to get deeper, upgrading to a rod between an 8 and 10 weight to carry the load. With a well-made rod with some backbone, you should be able to play even the largest wipers available in the state.
Having a fly rod with a strong backbone is essential for landing the biggest wipers Colorado has to offer.
The main factor with what tippet to use is strength. I am not a firm believer in leader shyness when fishing streamers to stillwater fish. As long as you’re not using telephone cable and you’re not fishing super slow, I don’t think wipers will be deterred by your tippet. I will most often use 15-20 pound fluorocarbon tippet which for me has not broken off on a strike yet. The worst mistake you can make is to go too light and break off on a fish. I’ll use a couple of feet of 40-pound mono looped to a couple feet of 20-pound mono looped to the fluorocarbon tippet. So typically my entire leader is not much more than 6 feet long. However when I fish on or very near the surface, I will go longer.
When you’re fishing to wiper, you will want to vary your retrieve until you find what works best. Typically you cannot strip fast enough through busting schools. But often you will find that quick short strip-strip-strip-pause retrieves work better in other conditions and to well-fed wiper. Vary the pause length….you may be surprised to lose hold of your line as you look up to say something to your buddy on one of the pauses and a wiper grabs the suspended fly and turns at Mach 1 in the opposite direction. One thought that should play into your technique is the belief that some of the biggest wiper will sit below schools of shad, waiting for easy pickings. If you drop your fly through and under the baitfish school you may find a heavy surprise down below. Experiment every time you go out, the mood of the fish seems to change daily.
Bait size is a factor. In some studies on bass feeding, it is proven that fish in certain bodies at a given time of year will have a preferred bait size. For wiper, I have been told that they like to eat baitfish that are as long as the width of the gape of their mouth when open. Experiment with streamer sizes if you’re having trouble locating and hooking fish. If you’re fishing with a partner, start off the day fishing different colors and different sizes until one of you has more success than the other, then switch over to the hot bait. We have had success with streamers as short as one inch to streamers as long as six inches.
Which color fly to use is opening a huge can of worms. As my good friend and perennial fisherman Phil Small says, “If it ain’t chartreuse, it ain’t no use.” That often may be the case, although we fish chartreuse very often which may skew the numbers. One theory I believe in is contrast….to use a fly that is two-colored, often with a light and a dark. The reason this may be effective is that fish see colors differently throughout the day, and therefore may pick up on the contrast if one or both of the colors is less visible at the time. You may try to “match-the-hatch” or go with more of an attractor pattern….and either may work, but I do not know of any tried-and-true pattern that works every time all of the time. It took me a long time to believe in any color theories, but I now believe color has something to do with the equation. So again, experiment daily with color, determine if one pattern is working more so than another, and run with it.
These are some of my most commonly used flies when fishing for wiper. From top, l-r: A saltwater popper, perch-colored Rainy’s CF Baitfish Streamer – unweighted, a home-tied big clouser-style shad imitation, chartreuse/white clouser, another big shad imitation, a streamer weighted body with wrap-around lead, and my favorite crayfish/bugger pattern with twist-tail.
Whether you use weighted streamers or not is another item to experiment with. We have had success fishing very light flies, lead-head or clouser-type flies, and weighted-body flies. Clouser-type flies work very well when using the strip-pause retrieve and when fishing a little lower in the water column. Weightless flies seem to work better when fishing high and fast especially on a sink-tip…but don’t fail to experiment fishing very light flies on floating line quickly right in the surface film which gives an injured baitfish kind of look. You may also try fishing clouser-type flies on floating line to fish just under the surface. If you’re looking for fish down deep, sinking lines and heavy flies will allow you to cover more water quickly.
Whether to use a sparsely tied or a very hairy fly is yet another option that the wipers will help you decide. To give some guidance based on my observations, try sparser streamers in water with good clarity, and thicker, hairier streamers in discolored water or mudlines. Flies that produce more water disturbance as they’re retrieved will appeal better to the lateral line senses utilized more so by fish in darker waters. This is also the case for night fishing.
One area I have yet to experiment with greatly is the use of surface flies, namely poppers. Definitely give poppers a chance, especially in low-light conditions or in busting schools. Vary retrieves from a pop-pop pause, to ripping the popper through the surface film. The typical rule of thumb in top water presentation is to create just enough disturbance to attract fish. You’ll want to try fishing larger poppers that make more noise in choppy conditions, and smaller poppers in still conditions.
And do not forget flies other than streamers. As I mentioned before, we’ve caught plenty of wipers on bugger and crayfish patterns, especially around pods of carp when we were most inclined to throw them. The rule of abundant and available applies anytime you fish. If there’s an abundance of crayfish available to wiper, you better give it a shot. One way to know for sure what the fish are concentrating on is to look for undigested food coming out of a fish you’ve caught. One weekend fishing on Horsetooth Reservoir for smallmouth, we noticed a small orange chunk of crayfish spewed from the mouth of a bass we had on the hook next to the boat. It had been a tough day finding any smallies that day as we rotated between a variety of streamer patterns and retrieves. Truth is the smallies had turned onto the molting crayfish much like trout key in on insect hatches.
Presenting crayfish with a fly rod is not as easy as fishing a tube jig on a spin rod. You want to fish them slow and low, preferably in areas with various sized rip-rap and boulders, even ticking the rocks. Doing so will often lead to plenty of hang-ups and lost flies. To improve your efficiency, fish a short sink-tip line with crayfish patterns designed to ride hook-point-up. The best crayfish patterns are those that are tied more like a wooly bugger, with short or no pincers (chelae), and in a color leaning more towards orange/tan than dark brown. In studies that relate to this subject, smallmouth bass preferred softer molting crayfish over larger hard-shell crayfish, the former tending to be of lighter color.
The jury is still deliberating on whether fishing insect imitations to wiper is effective. I myself have not tried this one lick. Whenever I have found wiper smacking the surface in a manner that might suggest that they are eating insects, a streamer always did the trick. But, perhaps this is a technique to consider. I believe all fish eat insects at some time or another – and I would guess that wipers may do so more than one might think.
For slower fishing, and when letting our fly drop below shad schools, I like to go with a shinier and more active streamer like this sparkly clouser-style streamer.
The wiper fight is what you came for. These fish take a fly in what was described by Dennis McKinney’s DOW Outdoor’s Journal article “Wiper Watch” as a U-turn fashion, which I completely agree with. The initial take is a hard thump, as if they hit it going 30 MPH in the opposite direction. Setting the hook should not be a problem as they tend to hook themselves.
Getting the fish to the reel, meaning picking up all the slack so your reel drag is activated, is not difficult to do with wiper. They will typically take all the slack line at your feet out with them on the first run. Just make sure you’re not wrapped around your feet, bushes, or items in your boat before the strike. Doing so may bring the fight to an abrupt halt and will cost you about one fly.
The fight can vary, but typically they will make a very pronounced initial run followed by a rest period and subsequent sharp runs. Do not overplay the fish to the point it is exhausted, and do not try to net the fish so green that it will injure itself flailing about. Take advantage of their “rest periods” by turning their heads gently, pumping your rod, and reeling in line to bring them closer to you. Let them take drag when they want to run. Do not put too much pressure on the fish as you may wear a hole in their lip that will make escape much easier for them. And do not, by any means, give them slack line.
After a few runs, if the fish seems to be losing some steam, put more pressure on the fish to bring it to the net. Once landed, if you plan to release the fish, handle it gently, support its weight fully when lifted for a photo, and return it to the water promptly. I have had no problem reviving wiper when handled in this manner. We always fish barbless and have not lost any fish due to this factor alone (if we do lose a fish it’s typically our own fault for allowing slack.) I encourage barbless fishing for any type of fishing you may try…hooks are easier to get out of your skin when the inevitable occurs, the hooks set deeper, and as long as you keep your line taught I do not believe you will ever lose a fish due to barbless hooks. But you will lose fish to weak hooks, so use strong saltwater hooks for your wiper flies or they might come back as straight as an arrow.
Smaller Wiper can be “thumbed” out of the water, but if you plan to release the fish, be sure to support their full body and don’t leave them hanging by the lip.
In conclusion, if you have not hooked into a wiper on the fly, you’ve got to give it a shot. But be aware that it may turn you into a wiper junkie. Finding wipers is a majority of the battle, so concentrate your efforts there, and when you do find them get ready for a battle! These observations are only from my experiences and a lot is yet to be written on this subject.
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Humminbird Matrix 77 Wide Range Of Features For Finding Fish
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Is there a structure lurking below the water, or is it a shoal of fish? If the Humminbird Matrix 77 is used, you’ll know what’s below the surface of the lake or river within a few minutes. Looking for your fish is much easier and more profitable when you use a fishfinder to guide you. You will be pleased to find the high quality and high levels of clarity that you will get from the Humminbird Matrix 77. There is no doubt that this fish finder will be helping you to bring the fish home.
Where are the fish? The Matrix 77 is better equipped to find them. Features of the Matrix 77 include a five inch, TFT display with enhanced, highly visible viewing. All this spells out just how easy it is to see what’s going on under the water. It will tell you what’s at the bottom. With its wide coverage DualBeam PLUS it will also help you to find out what structures are below the water as well. If there is a huge fish hiding down there, you’ll know about it.
By giving you a clear picture of what’s below, you will be better capable of locating your fish. You also have the convenient tilt and mount of the display. That means that you can keep your hands on the fishing rod, guiding the boat or feeding line instead of fiddling with the fishfinder.
With Real Time Sonar, the Matrix 77 allows you to know what’s happening continually below the water. You can see what’s happening in real time allowing you to follow the movements of the fish with your own actions. All of these features better enable to you bring home fish. The sonar directs you to the right locations by telling you what is done below. GPS readiness can help you to know where you are located, great to finding those hotspots!
The Matrix 77 offers a wide range of features like these to help you bring home fish every time you get out.
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Paddle sports are the fastest growing water sport today. Kayaking, canoeing and rafting are now destination activities. With all the green and eco friendly activities available, paddle sports have dominated the outdoor adventure scene. Paddle sports are low impact on the environment, inexpensive, thrilling and always memorable.
Not to be left out, the fishing and sporting communities wanted in on this explosion. Kayakers, anglers and sportsmen merged concepts and technologies. Along with diversity came opportunity. New specialty equipment, gear and accessories evolved. Fishing kayaks and kayak fishing hand paddles evolved from this call to action.
With the rapid growth of paddle sports, there has been a definitive diversification of the sport into various disciplines. All the technological and manufacturing advancements have fueled the sudden increase in the sport. Kayak fisherman and kayak sportsman have recently dominated the growth in the paddle sports arena.
Kayak fishermen, also known as kayak anglers, and kayak sportsmen require specialty equipment, gear and accessories to effectively pursuit their sport. Their fishing kayaks and fishing hand paddles are specifically designed to accommodate their dynamic environments and distinctive sporting activities.
Kayak anglers and sportsmen have designed boats for easy access and mobility. Many facets of their kayak design reflect accoutrements that were found only on motorized fishing vessels. Today you can find rod holders, live wells, storage compartments, battery wells, fish finders, anchors, etc. If they can fit a specialty fishing accessory on a twelve to fourteen foot kayak, they will try to get it on there! They even have twin hulled, foot propelled and battery operated kayaks for the hard core anglers.
For ease of access and dismount, the anglers use a modified version of the sit on top kayak, or SOT. SOT’s were a natural conversion platform for kayak anglers. These boats are self bailing, meaning that any water that gets in the kayak will be drained away by gravity. Getting on and off is much easier that a sit in kayak. Turning or sliding around to access tackle or gear behind you is much simpler evolution.
With this approach to fishing from kayaks, came another conundrum that caused problems in the kayak angling community. How do you paddle and fish at the same time? Think about it. Can you hold your fishing rod and a kayak paddle at the same time?
Paddling your kayak and fishing at the same time became a comedy on the water. It takes two hands to wrangle a seven foot kayak paddle, no matter how you hold it. Throw in a fishing pole, and you soon realize you need three hands!
Kayak fishing hand paddles evolved from pioneering anglers solving this problem with ping pong paddles, Kadema paddles, modified badminton racquets and the sort. They could hold onto their fishing rod and with the other hand paddle their boat stealthily toward their prey.
It soon became apparent that flailing a seven foot paddle is not conducive to shallow water, or skinny water fishing. The fish can see you! The best way to sneak up on your prey is to glide stealthily toward them. While holding your fishing rod, using a little six or seven ounce fishing hand paddle to propel your kayak, about 16″ long, is perfect for the task.
As you begin your foray into kayak fishing, do your research. Peruse the internet, talk to local anglers, visit local outfitters and try various kayak platforms and fishing hand paddles. That little effort will certainly make your fishing trip much more rewarding and memorable. Fish on!!
Source by Ed Halm
For many years, lake fish have been classified under three general heads: game fish, food fish, and forage or bait fish.
The bass, trout, pike, pickerel, muskellunge, pike perch, etc., have been generally known as game fish because of their sporting value.
On the other hand, carp, suckers, some of the catfish, yellow perch, etc., have been considered as food fish. While this latter group has not been considered as furnishing the sport that the so-called game fish do, nevertheless, it has a real economic and recreational value.
Generally speaking, in lake fishing, words are really inadequate when it comes to describing the correct procedure in casting. The best way to learn how to cast is to go down to the beach, watch an expert at work, and try to do likewise.
Nevertheless, lake fishing can really be fun and the novice will quickly master the correct form in lake fishing. Therefore, to further harness their craft, here are some tips that could help the anglers on their lake fishing activity.
1. In lake fishing, as with other forms of fishing, a smooth, snappy stroke is required but not as snappy as when snapping a whip. This type of stroke will cause the loss of many flies.
2. Anglers should remember that it is the line that is cast, not the fly. The fly is but a passenger, which is attached to the leader.
3. Proper timing is an important factor on both the backcast and forward cast.
4. Know the fish habitat and the kinds of fish that inhabit the lakes. Some of them are the sunfish, and the small mouth black bass.
These kinds of fish can usually be found hiding near some submerged log or stump, or among the plants.
5. When catching big fish in the lake, it is best to use big, sturdy rods. Big fish like the bass usually attain a weight of 12 pounds, which usually inhabits the lake or pond. The reason why they grow really big is that in lakes or ponds, the food is both abundant and very rich.
Hence, to handles these sizes, the ideal length and weight of the rod is 8
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